A great bagel gives itself away before the first bite. It has a thin, shiny crust that resists just a little. It pulls instead of crumbling. Inside, the crumb is dense, chewy, and satisfying, not airy like a roll. That texture does not happen by accident. It comes from a step that separates real bagels from bread shaped like rings: boiling before baking. At Yaba's Bagels in Dunwoody, our New York-style bagels with a Mediterranean twist are hand-rolled, kettle-boiled, and bake